TMT Day 11 & 12 - Beddgelert, Wales

Some hillwalking in the Welsh countryside.

After a few days in the Cotswolds, it was time to head to the second leg of the trip - Wales.

The time in Wales was intended to be a bit of a respite from our time in the Cotswolds. There were no planned interviews with pubs or publicans, just some time spent walking and hiking in the Welsh countryside.

The first week or so of this trip has been more mentally exhausting than I initially suspected it would be - between all the conversations with publicans and breweries, the brain has had to be more “on” than it usually is during a quick two-week jaunt.

Plus, I managed to catch a little traveler’s cold. Inevitable, I suppose. All the time in pubs doesn’t exactly lend itself to a properly functioning immune system.

So, I’m hoping the magic of the ancient Welsh mountains would physically and mentally cure me.

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The first two nights are in Beddelgeret, a small town in the northwest area of Eryri National Park (Snowdonia). It’s a tiny village, about 450 or so people, sat alongside the River Colwyn. Walking around, your mind drifts to what it must have been like living here 800 years ago when Beddgelert was first mentioned in text - a hard life, I’d imagine.

The air is damp and cold. The ground is squishy underfoot. But no rain so far - good news for some hill walking. I love the term hillwalking (hill walking?) they use here. Going on a “hike” feels harsher on the tongue. There’s more implied, like I’m doing it as a physical feat to conquer something. Hillwalking, on the other hand, feels more whimsical. Less implied size or duration, just a casual jaunt through the woods while in communion with nature.

And the nature in Wales is magic - castles and dragons, legends and myths, all your medieval childhood fantasies live here. Supposedly, the legend of King Arthur likely comes from ancient Welsh folklore and mythology.

Even this little town, Beddgelert, has its own origin story:

Legend has it that one day Llywelyn went out hunting, leaving his son sleeping peacefully in a cradle—after all, Gelert, his dog, would be there to protect his son from any dangers.

While Llywelyn was out, a wolf prowled over to the baby’s cradle. Gelert leapt towards the wolf to guard the prince’s son. A fierce fight ensued between Gelert and the wolf. The baby’s cot was overturned as the two animals’ bodies flew from one end of the room to the other.

Despite the fierce battle, Gelert managed to kill the wolf.

Eventually, Llywelyn returned and was shocked at the mess before him. He saw Gelert covered in blood and his baby having fallen out of his cradle.

Without hesitation, Llywelyn drew his sword and killed Gelert on the spot.

After killing his dog, he heard the sound of crying coming from the cradle. He rushed over and saw his baby alive and well, with the dead wolf by his side.

Source: https://snowdonia.gov.wales/discover/history-and-heritage/mythology-and-folklore/gelert/

You can even go and visit Gelert’s grave!

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The landscape in Snowdonia makes you feel the magic, especially at this time of year. Vibrant green moss blankets the rocks of the crossing leaves. Rich golds, browns, and purples as the deciduous trees and ferns change color. The lingering grey mist piques your interest.

It’s a color palette and climate that feels familiar, similar to home, but is something else entirely. Magic, perhaps.

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Last note - we’re staying in the Sygn Fawr guest house, about a 15-minute walk outside the Beddgelert village center. It’s an excellent little spot, and the owners, Jay and Keith, are very kind and hospitable. So, if you find yourself in this part of Wales, see if they’re available.

-Skylar